Alternator and Starter Motor Repair Norwich

Three parts share the job of starting a car and keeping it running: the battery stores the power, the starter motor uses it to turn the engine, and the alternator puts it back while you drive. When one fails the symptoms overlap, and the commonest mistake we see is a new battery fitted to a car with a dead alternator, which flattens the new battery within a fortnight. At Ber Street we test the battery, the charging voltage and the starter draw together, so you replace only what has actually failed.

Diagnosed firstthe fault found before it is quoted

Quoted before worknothing added without your say so

3-month guaranteeor 3,000 miles on workmanship

Open 7 daysfree parking on site

Alternator Faults

• Battery warning light on while driving: the alternator is not charging, or its belt has gone. The car will run until the battery is flat, then stop.
• Headlights dimming at idle and brightening with revs: low output, often worn brushes or a failing regulator.
• A whine or grinding from the front of the engine that changes with revs: alternator bearings.
• A new battery that goes flat in days or weeks: the alternator is not recharging it, or there is a parasitic drain.
• Electrical gremlins: flickering dash lights, erratic wipers, a radio that resets, all from unstable voltage.

We test output voltage and ripple at idle and under load, check the belt and tensioner, and look for a drain before replacing anything. Quality replacement units are fitted with the belt checked and the battery tested afterwards.

Starter Motor Faults

• A single click and nothing: usually the starter solenoid, sometimes just a poor connection or a flat battery.
• Rapid clicking: nearly always a low battery, not the starter.
• A grinding or whirring when starting: the starter pinion not engaging the flywheel ring gear properly.
• Intermittent starting that improves when the engine is tapped or after a wait: worn brushes or a tired solenoid.

Because the symptoms mimic a flat battery, we test the battery and the cable connections first. Starter motors on some cars are buried under the inlet manifold or behind the exhaust, which is why the labour varies and why we quote from the book time for your specific car.

Or Is It the Battery?

Often, yes, and it is the cheapest of the three. A battery three to five years old that struggles on cold mornings, cranks slowly or needs jump starting is probably done, and on stop-start cars the wrong battery type fails early. Our battery changes page covers testing and fitting, and the car battery cost guide explains why stop-start batteries cost more. Whatever the fault, a free battery and charging test is where we start.

Good to know

How do I know if it is the alternator or the battery? A battery light on while driving, dimming lights at idle or a new battery going flat quickly point to the alternator. Slow cranking on cold mornings on an older battery points to the battery. We test both together so you only replace the faulty one.

Stranded This Morning?

If the car will not start at home, a jump start or a portable pack will usually get an alternator or battery fault to us, and the jump start guide explains how to do it safely on a modern car. A starter fault will not respond to a jump; if it clicks once with a healthy battery, use your breakdown cover to bring it in. We are open seven days including Sunday, which is when most of these calls come.

Booking

Call 07933 900901 with the registration and the symptom. Testing first, a written quote, and no work without your approval. Free parking at 100-106 Ber Street, open Monday to Saturday 8am to 6pm and Sunday 10am to 4pm, 3-month / 3,000-mile workmanship guarantee on every repair.

How a Repair Works Here